The Art of bread: first you need some steam
Scott Cherry World Entertainment Writer
04/07/2000
LET'S EAT

Now thats Italian

Tom Farrell knows the look of good bread. "the crust should have three colors-dark brown, medium and light."
STEPHEN HOLLMAN/Tulsa World
Sterling Plate loaves.
Tom Farrell wasn't just loafing around last October when he gathered steam for a new career.

That's when his new steam-injecting flat oven arrived from Italy.

"This oven allows me to make fabulous artisan breads," said Farrell, pointing to the narrow, horizontal racks where the bread is baked. "The oven puts intense heat on the bottom of the bread, then the steam goes up and around the top of the bread to give it a thin, nice crust."

Farrell said the quality of his breads also is enhanced by the organic flour he uses. The flour is ordered from mills in California and Colorado.

"You have grocery store flour, you have unbleached flour and then way above those you have organic flour," he said. "I actually use what they call high-extraction organic flour that has some bran and germ, which gives the bread a lot better flavor."

Farrell and his wife, Loretta, a family practice physician in Owasso, became more interested in a diet of fruits, vegetables and organic grains after their son, Michael Christos, was born a little more than a year ago.

His homemade organic breads became so popular with family and friends that he began exploring how to make the breads on a larger scale. Hence, the Italian oven.

The oven is located at the Sterling Plate, primarily a catering business at 8034 S. Yale Ave. The breadmaking venture is technically a separate business, operating under the name Farrell Family Organic Bread.

The breads, as well as a variety of dessert items from Sterling Plate, are offered to the public at the store from noon to 5 p.m. Monday-Saturday.

Farrell makes about a dozen different types of bread, and choices will vary daily. You might find whole wheat levain with sun-dried cherries one day and foccacia with sun-dried tomatoes the next. Sizes vary, and prices range from about $2.50 to $5.25 a loaf.

Farrell, a trained chef who studied at the French Culinary Institute in Manhattan, said high- quality bread usually has a couple of visual characteristics.

"The crust should have three colors -- dark brown, medium and light," he said. "And big holes on the bread inside usually indicate a great texture."

In addition to the Sterling Plate, Farrell's breads also may be found at Wild Oats and Petty's Fine Foods. His sourdough bread is served at The Polo Grill restaurant.

"Except for a couple of chain bakeries, I am the only local person baking artisan breads," said Farrell. "I think anyone would like my breads, and I would particularly encourage people interested in a healthful diet to check it out."

Salvador Deli, a colorful eatery with neon accents and first-rate food at 6670 S. Lewis Ave., has closed.

"Everyone who tried our food seemed to like it," said owner Harold Burlingame. "We just didn't have enough people try it, so now we are looking for new tenants."

He said anyone interested in inquiring about the space should call Burlingame Realty Co. at 494-2634.


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